Stillness Above the River at Hoshinoya Bali
Stillness. If I could describe HOSHINOYA Bali in one word, that would be it.
Set above the Pakerisan River in the hills beyond Ubud, the resort is surrounded by lush jungle and rice fields. The quiet here is not an absence of sound, but something filled with birdsong, moving water and the occasional rustle of leaves.
As a family, we seemed to fall into the rhythm of the place almost immediately. Our days moved between swims outside our room, long breakfasts, afternoons in the hanging gazebos and gentle experiences centred around Balinese art, culture and wellbeing.
HOSHINOYA Bali feels less like a conventional resort and more like a small village shaped by water and jungle. Long pools run between the villas like canals, pathways follow the valley’s edge and sculptural gazebos reach out above the treetops. Japanese restraint sits alongside the warmth and craftsmanship of Bali in carved timber, moss-covered stone, tropical planting and spaces designed to draw the surrounding landscape closer.
The spa became one of the defining moments of my stay. Reached by a small incline lift descending through the jungle, it has one of the most beautiful outlooks. After two hours of spice-infused oil, massage, a body scrub, wrap and herbal salt bath, I floated back to my room.
What stayed with me most was not simply how peaceful it felt while we were there, but how different I felt when we left. Rested, softened and restored in a way that reached somewhere much deeper than sleep.
By Anna Harding
Images by Anna Harding & Hoshinoya Bali
The Rooms
Our villa was spacious, but it was the simplicity of the room that made it feel so restful.
Warm timber, low furniture and softly filtered light created a quiet backdrop. The walls were lined with beautifully carved wooden panels inspired by the plants, birds and stories of the surrounding landscape.
There was a sense that every element had been considered and then left alone. Nothing felt excessive or included merely to fill the space. The beauty came through the materials, proportions and small practical details that made the room so comfortable to live in.
Outside, our terrace opened directly onto one of the long swimming pools connecting the villas. Rather than placing a single central pool at the heart of the resort, HOSHINOYA Bali threads water throughout it, allowing the pools to appear and disappear between gardens, stone walls and shaded terraces.
Stepping straight from our room into the water became part of the rhythm of each day. We would swim before breakfast, return after an activity or sit beside the pool while the kids played. Although the water is shared, the landscaping creates smaller pockets that feel surprisingly private.
Nourishment
Eating well became one of the great pleasures of our stay, beginning each morning with breakfast overlooking the surrounding greenery.
The menu was generous and beautifully varied, with plates of fresh tropical fruit, juices, excellent coffee and a choice of hot breakfasts. Some mornings we chose local dishes; on others, something simpler and more familiar. Everything felt fresh and thoughtfully prepared, without becoming overly elaborate first thing in the day.
Our most memorable dinner was the Bali Harmony Set Course, inspired by Tri Hita Karana, the Balinese philosophy of harmony between the divine, nature and people.
The meal travelled through the landscapes and traditions of Bali, with each dish expressing something different about the island. There were references to ceremony and daily offerings, the rice fields surrounding Ubud, the coast and the relationship between people and the natural world.
Herbs, flowers, sauces and delicate elements were arranged with such precision that they almost looked too good to eat. Almost.
Another highlight was the Chamilan Gazebo afternoon tea, served inside one of the resort’s remarkable birdcage-like structures above the valley.
The gazebos are one of HOSHINOYA Bali’s defining design features. Positioned along the steep edge of the landscape, they project out towards the jungle and appear almost suspended above the trees.
Afternoon tea started with freshly made teas followed by small sweet and savoury bites influenced by Indonesian, Japanese and Western flavours. It was delicious, but the greatest pleasure was the setting itself.
Spa & Wellness
The spa experience begins before the treatment. A small incline lift carries you away from the main resort and down through the hillside towards the Pakerisan River.
The treatment rooms sit halfway down the valley, surrounded by jungle and looking towards the river below. It is one of the most extraordinary spa outlooks. The forest filled almost every part of the view and the sound of the river became part of the treatment. The spa was intentionally positioned here to draw guests closer to the atmosphere of the jungle.
I chose the two-hour Balinese Body Revitalisation, which began with a full-body massage using oil infused with warming Balinese spices, including deeper, focused work around the shoulders. This was followed by a body scrub, wrap and herbal salt bath.
Wellness at HOSHINOYA Bali also extends into the everyday rhythm of the stay. One morning, we joined a sunrise stretching practice in an open-air pavilion overlooking the valley. Simple movements and watching the morning sun arrive.
For guests wishing to make wellbeing the deeper purpose of their visit, HOSHINOYA Bali also offers three immersive stays shaped by the landscape and healing traditions of the sacred valley. The four-night Holistic Ritual in Sacred Valley moves between physical effort and release through yoga, spa therapies and Melukat, a traditional Balinese purification ritual. The two-day Revitalizing Ritual in Sacred Valley is more physically energising, combining strength-building yoga with mindfulness at Goa Gajah, purification at Sebatu waterfall, restorative treatments and Balinese meals. The three-night Longevity Ritual in Sacred Valley takes a broader view of wellbeing, bringing together movement, deep rest, cultural experiences, spa treatments and nutrient-rich regional food.
Although we experienced this philosophy in smaller moments with a sunrise stretch, time at the spa and the quiet pace of our days, the longer programmes offer the possibility of going much deeper. What feels particularly special is that wellbeing is never separated from the setting. The river, food, rituals and landscape of Bali all become part of the experience.
Experiences
The experiences at HOSHINOYA Bali offer gentle ways to understand more about Balinese art, culture and everyday rituals.
One afternoon, we learnt the process of making batik. The girls were given a special version adapted for children, allowing them to take part alongside us. We also learnt how to make a traditional Balinese offering, carefully arranging flowers and natural materials into the small woven forms which you see everywhere in Bali.
These experiences offered a small point of connection to the culture surrounding us, while remaining relaxed and accessible for the whole family.
Between activities, we often returned to the library. Cool and quiet, it was a lovely place to read and sit together. We picked up a copy of The Things You Can See Only When You Slow Down by Haemin Sunim, which felt incredibly fitting. A small reminder of exactly what the stay was inviting us to do.
We also spent time exploring the surrounding rice fields, walking along narrow paths through the countryside and catching glimpses of daily rural life beyond the resort.
The hanging gazebos also became part of our days beyond afternoon tea. What better way to spend an afternoon stretched out on the daybed, reading, talking and looking out into the jungle.
There was a sense that every element had been considered and then left alone. Nothing felt excessive or included merely to fill the space. The beauty came through the materials, proportions and small practical details that made the rooms so comfortable to live in.
Fields Notes
Do not miss
The two-hour Balinese Body Revitalisation, the Bali Harmony Set Course and Chamilan afternoon tea in one of the hanging gazebos.
For families
The team made everything feel incredibly easy. Florence and Amélie were welcomed with genuine warmth, and the cultural experiences were thoughtfully adapted so they could participate alongside us.
Exploring the surrounding area
Book a private driver and explore all that nature has to offer in the area: hikes, waterfall swims and rafting.
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HOSHINOYA Bali is undeniably beautiful, but its real luxury lies in the way it alters your sense of time.
For a few days, life became a succession of small pleasures: waking to the jungle, slipping into the pool, tasting something fragrant and unfamiliar, making things with our hands and watching the valley disappear into the evening light.
We arrived carrying the pace of life outside. We left a little quieter.
